Sunday, 15 February 2026

Diagnosing a PET Video Fault from One Photograph

I get a lot of emails asking for help with computer repairs. I do what I can to help where I can.

This one was quite an interesting challenge, so lets go through the process I used to deduce the fault.

The owner had initially contacted me saying they had a PET 2001, and there was no video output, and they wondered if bad ROM or RAM could cause that and would a PET ROM/RAM fix the issue?

On a later PET like a 12" 40xx or 8xxx machine, that could be the case, as the CRTC chip needs to be programmed during the boot sequence. If it does not get far enough in, the chip does not get configured to generate the appropriate video sync frequencies, and so the monitor does not show anything.

However, in the 2001 and other 9" PETs, the video circuitry is all hard wired to 60Hz and the appropriate style sync signals for the 9" monitors.

The video circuitry is pretty much stand alone. You could remove the CPU and you should still get a display of random characters, and that is actually a useful troubleshooting step. In this case then, a PET ROM/RAM board won't help until the video is working.

The owner had probed around and found the correct 15.625KHz / 64us HSync signal was present, but 60Hz / 16.67ms VSync signal was missing.

There are a series of counters and decoding logic which generates the sync signals and clock through the video RAM.

It sounds like there was a problem with the VSync generation part of that, so I suggested they trace back through that and see where it stopped.

After some probing around, they found the 74177 at D6 was at fault, and replacing that give video sync and a screen full or random characters.

Time for a ROM/RAM board. One was order and fitted.

Normally that would cure the issue, but in this case, it did not. 

I was sent this photo of the screen.

It is sort of working, you can pick out bits of the correct "COMMODORE BASIC" and "31743 BYTES FREE" and "READY" that you would expect to see, but not in the right place, and surrounded by random characters.

The owner was rightly dubious of the video RAM chips. However, substituting any of the system RAM chips made it worse, and swapping the two video RAM chips around made no difference. Given that I was not sure they were at fault, I was not recommending one of my video RAM replacement boards at this stage.

I started thinking through what the problem would could be.

I am not sure about that being the video RAM. Those patterns of 8 character blocks suggest otherwise, particularly if you still see the same patterns with different RAM chips.

I think it is more likely down to the video address generation circuitry.

The RAM chips can develop similar faults, but it is unlikely both chips would fail identically. Each chip is 4 bits, so to correctly display bits of COMMODORE BASIC in the same (albeit wrong) place, both halves of each characters need to have failed identically.

I have straightened up the picture, you can see good runs of "COMMODORE BASIC" and "31743 BYTES FREE" and "READY" and blank spaces. That would suggest the data path (and quite possibly the RAM) is fine.

It is not WHAT it is reading and writing, it is WHERE.

I think at this point it would be good to have a look at how the PET video RAM is used.

The PET video RAM is memory mapped. There is a 1K block at $8000 in RAM which represents 1000 characters, a 40x25 text display (and 24 free non-visible bytes at the end you could theoretically use for your own purposes).

Each of these 1000 characters can be any of 256 fixed characters (there are no user defined characters).

It is actually only 128 characters followed by inverted versions of the same.

There are two different character sets. The PET 2001 BASIC 1.0 has a different arrangement of the characters set, which makes more sense than the later ones to me. Not sure why they changed.

The first set is uppercase letters and graphic characters.

The second set is uppercase and lowercase letters.

The uppercase characters in this version are in the same place for both sets (which seems logical to me).

On BASIC 2 and BASIC 4 machines, the second set has lowercase and uppercase swapped.

Which makes less sense to me, and also leads to incompatibility if you use BASIC 1 software on a BASIC 2 or later machines, or vice versa, you end up with text displayed in the wrong case.

How it works

In an ideal world, the PET would use dual port RAM, with the 6502 memory mapped $8xxx on one side and the video circuitry on the other.

I have used the naming convention of the PET schematics:

  • BA = Buffered Address Bus
  • BD = Buffered Data Bus
  • SD = Shared Data Bus
  • VA = Video Address Bus (not named in the PET schematics)

Dual port 1K RAM chips were not available in the late 1970s when the PET was designed. There were available later on, but have now been discontinued again.

The PET gets around that by having one bank of RAM and switching access between the two sides.

When memory at $8xxx is accessed by the 6502, an address multiplexor is switched to connect the 6502's buffered address bus to the video RAM's shared address bus.

The data buffers connect the video RAM's data bus to the 6502s data bus for read and write operations.

When the 6502 is doing other things, the address mux connects the video RAM shared address bus to the video address bus.

The video circuity only ever reads from the video RAM, and is always connected.

When the 6502 is accessing the video RAM, whatever data it is reading or writing is displayed to the screen, resulting in "snow", more or less depending on how much access there is.

You can get this screen by setting the DIP switches on the ROM/RAM board to 1 and 2 on, 3, 4 and 5 off, that should run a test cycle. You should see a screen full of "G", then a character set, then back to the "G"'s.

The "G" screen should be clean, but there will be snow noise on the character set. If you press and hold the reset button whilst on that screen, the noise will go away until you release the button if you want a better view.

Later model PETs got around this by allowing the video circuitry to read the video RAM during the low part of the clock cycle, when the 6502 was thinking about what it wants to do in the high part of the cycle, and so was not reading or writing from the bus.

Video Circuity Block Diagram

Expanding things a bit, shows more of the implementation.

In video mode, the display starts at the top left of the screen and the video address counters (not shown here) start to count up from $0000 in the video RAM (which corresponds to $8000 in the PET memory map).

The character code of the first character is placed on the shared data bus.

Bit 7 controls if this character is to be inverted. It is latched (twice) and the stored value used to switch the video output between the non-inverted and inverted pixel data from the 74LS165 shift register.

Bits 0-6 forms bits 4-9 of the address fed into the character ROM. Bits 0-2 are from a line counter. Bit 10 is the character set switch.

Each character is 8 pixels wide, and 8 pixels high. The patterns are stored for each of the 8 lines of each character.

The output of the character ROM is fed to the 74LS165 shift register where the character pixels are clocked out at a rate of 8MHz. 8 pixels per microsecond. 

1 character per microsecond. 40 characters per row, 40 microseconds of characters for every 64 microsecond line on the display.

And so it continues until all 8 lines of the first row of characters have been drawn. It then goes onto the second row and the line counter is back at 0.

8 lines per character, 25 rows of characters, 200 lines in total, 12.8ms in the middle of the 16.67ms video frame.

I hope you are writing that all down in your copybook.

Which Schematic?

Schematics wise, there are four to choose from for the 2001 PET:

  • 320008 has 6550 video RAM and 6540-010 character ROM (the original, and most common)
  • 320081 has 6550 video RAM and 2316 character ROM (I have never seen one of these)
  • 320123 has 2114 video RAM and 6540-010 character ROM (I have seen a few of these)
  • 320137 has 2114 video RAM and 2316 character ROM (I have never seen one of these either)

I have never seen any PET 2001s with either board version that has 2316 ROMs (standard 24 pin mask ROMs found in later Commodore machines). I don't even think I have seen photos.

The fact that all the PET 2001s I have seen have 6540 ROMs could mean a few things. Either they never made many of the 2316 versions, or they made loads and they all still work perfectly, so have never needed to be repaired because they don't have those awful 6540 ROMs in them.

Or they were so bad they all failed in the late seventies and few survived. That is less likely given that all later PETs used that same combination of 2114 video RAM and 2316 character ROMs (apart from the 8296 and CBM-II series which used shared main RAM). The 6540 and 6550 were never seen again, which is a good thing. Nice idea, but they didn't work in practice.

The owner has quite sensibly removed and safely stored away all the system ROM and RAM at the front and fitted a PET ROM/RAM.

That should make the system more reliable, allow it to be upgraded to 32K of RAM and BASIC 4.0.

It will also reduce global warming significantly once the 6540s and 6555s are removed.

Note, I said system ROM and RAM. The 6540 character ROM at the back, and the 6550 video RAM a bit further in can stay if they are working. I have replacements if they are not working, or you want something more long term reliable.

In those positions, the chips are permanently enabled, so even when they fail, the usual failure mode is to be enabled all the time, so everything is OK. You can sometimes use 6550 RAM chips as video RAM even if they fail as main RAM because of the enable arrangements for video RAM.

The 6540-010 replacement also includes a switch on the side to select between the BASIC 1 character set (with the logical placement of uppercase letters) and the BASIC 2 / BASIC 4 versions (with the inexplicably worse later version).

The Full Schematic

The schematics for all four boards are hand drawn, and none of the scans of those are particularly clear, so I have redrawn the relevant sections.

Well, almost full. I have left off the video address counters and the clock logic, but that shows most of the relevant sections.

Diagnosing the Fault

I tidied the image up a bit further to make the text easier to read.

There are several important things to get from that photograph:

  • All characters are correctly formed
  • Everything is in 8 character blocks
  • Some of those contain valid text, but in the wrong place
  • Many of them contain random data, indicating they are uninitialised

Looking through that, I can see three possibilities for the video fault in the photograph:

  1. The 6502 is writing the screen correctly to the video RAM, but the video circuitry is looking in the wrong places when generating the screen.
  2. The video circuitry is perfectly representing what is in the video RAM, but the 6502 is writing to the wrong places in memory.
  3. The 6502 is writing to the correct place, and the video RAM is reading from the right place, but somehow the video RAM chips are writing to one place and reading from another

Writing it out like that, I think #3 is not impossible (especially with 6550s), but seems unlikely, so the video RAM is probably not the cause. The characters all being correct also rule out things like the character ROM and the shift register and line counters etc.

One down, two to go

If the video circuitry was not reading from the video RAM correctly, it would all be either the @ symbol ($00) or the chequerboard character ($FF) in those spaces. Random data indicates it is reading RAM correctly, but the RAM has not been initialised. So probably not #1.

When you see parts of the screen still with random characters, that is usually the address mux side of it not letting the 6502 write to those bits.

Therefore I would say #2, the address the 6502 wants to write to is getting messed up, and that would be down to the address mux chips. It seems every time it counts to 8 it jumps somewhere else, which suggests a problem with video address line SA3, which would point to the address mux chips. SA3 is switched by the 74LS157 at position D3 (next to the 6502). That would be my first thought, and if that is bad, I would consider replacing D2 and D4 at the same time as there are also apparently faults with higher address lines as well.

I have seen that sort of thing quite a few times, I found lots of photos of boards where I had replaced one or more 74LS157s.

They seem a common point of failure in machines of these era.

The only one I can find that I have written up was this 8032 board where one of the many faults was down to a mux chip with a similar patters on blocks, runs of 32 characters this time.

Condensed Version

I wrote quite a lot of that in the email response to the owner, with a short preface at the start saying it was most likely the 74LS157s at D2-D4 and they could skip the rest of the email.

They ordered some 74LS157 and replaced D2, D3 and D4 and the PET is now up and running.

Thank you to the owner for the photos of their now working PET 2001.

Including the obligatory shot of invaders, apparently this is a version they modified back in the day to work with the BASIC version 1 this PET originally had. They bought it from someone "upgrading" to an Apple when it was only a year or so old.

One very nice, and very early PET 2001, note the modified domestic cassette recorder and the blue labels.

Oh, OK, that's very early. A serial number with a lot of zeroes and a one at the end?

No reason to doubt it is genuine, looks the same as the one on my PET 2001 (which if anything looks more like a fake as it is much cleaner).

Mine is apparently 8,410 PETs later, with the same slightly bolder number 1 a bit out of place on the left (which Jori on my Patreon found meant 240V).


I enjoy a bit of problem solving like that. I try to help where I can, if I can.

The only time I had to decline recently was when I was in the middle of writing a big long blog post (aren't they all?). I was emailed by someone said they had built a Vicky Twenty (nothing to do with me) and that it didn't work when they plugged in a Final Expansion 3 (also nothing to do with me), although they did note it worked fine with Commodore diagnostics and with a Penultimate Cartridge (oooh, I did that one).

If it had been a Mini VIC and the Penultimate Cartridge, then I would do my best to help.

I wouldn't know where to start with the other things though I am afraid as I don't know either of the products involved, so had to suggest they contract the designers, sellers or community forums.

The only other time I have to decline to help is when people are trying to get a set of 6540 ROM chips to work. I have been doing this an awfully long time, and I have been through it many times. It's just not worth it. It will never last. They will all fail sooner rather than later if you actually use the PET. With the best of intentions, you can go through very expensive used ones from ebay or individual adapters, but you will end up replacing them all, at least once as they just burn out other chips when they fail. A nice idea that didn't work out, and Commodore dropped after the PET and never used again for good reason.

(that is one of the 6540 ROM and 2114 RAM boards I mentioned about 6 foot further up the screen)


Sponsorship

I think I might have arranged some sponsorship for the blog.

Don't worry, it's not VPNs or mattresses or craft kits or mental health or learning or microwave meals or health drinks or free games with heavy in-game purchases or phone networks or earbuds or yet another VPN or anything like that.

It is the PCB manufacturer that I actually use, and have been using for about 8 years I think and that I am happy to recommend.

I kept getting emails from a different PCB company, one I don't use, and it didn't seem right to do accept sponsorship from them, so I contacted my guys and asked if they would sponsor the blog.

I am still sorting out the details, but it seems like it will help, so there is now a logo on the side of the page (under the Patreon and Tindie ones) with my affiliate link, and there will be the occasional mention in a relevant post.

I hope no one will have a problem with that.

Shortly after, I received an email from Patreon suggesting I send my members a Valentine's Day surprise. Not sure if they have read my blog, that's not really on theme.

Anyway, I thought I would have a go and this is what I sent to Patreon a couple of days ago (on the end of a very long Mini PET II development log, so few people will have actually got to the end to see it).

JLCPCBs are Red

JLCPCBs are Blue

Here is my affiliate link

So you can get some too


Tindie

My Tindie store contains all sort of kits, test gear and upgrades for the ZX80, ZX81, Jupiter ACE, and Commodore PET, including the PET ROM/RAM, character ROM and video RAM replacements mentioned above, as well as complete PET replacement boards.


Patreon

You can support me via Patreon, and get access to advance previews of blog posts, and progress updates on new projects like the Mini PET II and Mini VIC and other behind the scenes updates. This also includes access to my Patreon only Discord server for even more regular updates.

Sunday, 8 February 2026

10 Years with my Second Nissan Leaf

This week my 2016 Nissan Leaf had it's MOT, and is still going strong after 10 years.

That is actually my second Leaf. I had a 2013 first generation Leaf before that, but it was on a 3 year lease with no option to keep the car, otherwise I would probably still have that one. It looks to have been MOTed up to 2021, having covered 20,000 miles. It may have been exported, many were. If not, it's quite likely the drive train and/or batteries live on in other uses.

I wrote several posts about that car when new, one year on, three years on etc. It was quite unusual to be daily driving an EV 13 years ago. I have not written about it's replacement so far as it is just normal common sense these days.

I did try a few times to arrange to buy out the lease, but it wasn't an option.

Instead, I replaced that with a brand new 2016 Leaf with a 30 kWh battery instead of the 24 kWh of the 2013 version.

The new one is essentially the same car, with nicer wheels, a better stereo, a better heater, a 6.6 kW charger (all good) and a mechanical left foot parking break instead of the electronic parking break (less good).

It seemed to me a step backwards from a neat little electronically controlled lever to a clunky mechanical foot operated version, and a very lazy change. They removed the lever and just left the hole for no particular reason, just an oddly shaped small storage recess.

At the time I was still doing a 32 mile round trip commute every day, and plugging it in to charge at work and occasionally at home as required.

These days I work from home, so it is just doing lots of short local runs and it is doing great.

The MOT this week failed first time around due to the "Nearside Rear Service brake excessively fluctuating fluctuating through pedal".

The inboard breaks were actually fine, it was the brake discs all around that were corroded and causing that issue. They had been advisories for the last couple of years, but they were the original 10 years old parts, so about time they were done, and after that it passed the retest.

Living close to the sea (about 100 yards) is not the best for corroding brake discs, and the Leaf does not use them enough to keep them clean as most of the time the regenerative braking slows the cars by recharging the battery.

Slamming the brakes on uses the actual breaks (or switching into neutral whilst moving and applying the breaks), which is usually enough the clear off the worst of the rust.

That is the most I have spent on the car over the last ten years. New brakes this year, new tyres a couple of years ago and a new 12V battery a few years before that. A couple of wiper blades and some screen wash. That's about the total parts cost over 10 years ~ £1,000.

Economy

The dash shows the current average economy of 4.1 miles per kWh, that's quite efficient even as far as modern EVs go.

With the 30 kWh battery, that is a theoretical range of 123 miles. In practice it was more like 100-120 when new.

The battery state of health is displayed on the dash by the 12 thin bars around the right hand side of the range gauge on the right.

This year that finally dropped from 12 bars to 11 bars. I think that indicates the battery is down to 80-85% of it's original range. Not bad for 10 years and 10,000 miles.

That means the range these days is 80-100 miles, and that is never an issue with the short trips, just top it up when convenient at home a few times a month or at the supermarket or car parks when convenient.

I have only used the rapid charger a handful of times, I don't live life at a speed where that is necessary.

Rounding lots of things, 10,000 miles and 4 miles per kWh is 2,500 kWh total over 10 years.

Using today's prices of 26.75 pence per kWh, those 10,000 miles would have cost £668.75.

That is worse case, using the cheap rate over night, it drops to 7p per kWh, so £175.

In fact it is probably less than that, as I did not pay to charge at work in those days, so it may be as little as £100 for £10,000 miles.

Diesel Comparison

My good old VW Golf (which I traded in for the first leaf after 11 years) would do about 50 miles per gallon on a good day. The Golf looks to have been MOTed up to 2018, with 170,000 miles on the clock. (I doubt the fuel tank or 1.8TDI engine live on)

Using today's prices, 10,000 miles would be 200 gallons of diesel. 900 litres. Google tells me the supermarket average price this days is about £1.38 per litre (I wouldn't know, it's been 13 years since I had to buy diesel).

900 litres of diesel at £1.38 per litre is £1,242, so about double the worse case of the EV and seven times more than the best case (twelve times more if I take into account the free charging!).

I am sure I would have needed more than 1 set of tires and 1 set of brakes over 10 years with the golf. I think I went through at least 3 clutches.

Conclusion

I don't like the styling of the current range of Leafs, and Nissan seems to have dropped the ball to their competition in terms of the underlying technology as well.

I am very happy with my 2016 model. I also don't fancy all the bings and bongs of the mandatory speed warnings and lane keep assist etc. in modern cars.

Lots of real buttons to easily access all the functions, none of this digging through touch screen menus to turn the demist on.

The car is still going strong 10 years on, and I have no plans to change.

It always looks nice and shiny after the rain, and luckily we have no shortage of rain these days.

It still looks smart and drives like a breeze. Cheap to run in terms of parts and energy costs.

What's not to like?

I know I happen to be a good use case, and not everyone is, so please don't feel the need to tell me why you have to drive 300 miles each day without stopping more than 5 minutes.


Something else celebrating a 10 year anniversary is the VIC20 Penultimate Cartridge, in honour of which there is a limited edition reissue of the original 2016 version. (I wonder if Nissan would consider that?)

My Tindie store also contains all sort of kits, test gear and upgrades for the ZX80, ZX81, Jupiter ACE, and Commodore PET.


Patreon

You can support me via Patreon, and get access to advance previews of blog posts, and progress updates on new projects like the Mini PET II and Mini VIC and other behind the scenes updates. This also includes access to my Patreon only Discord server for even more regular updates.

Sunday, 1 February 2026

10 Years of the Penultimate Cartridge

This year, the Penultimate Cartridge turns 10 years old. A lot has changed over the years, let's have a bit of a look back at how it all started.

10 years ago this week, I published a blog post about the first Penultimate Cartridge.

Ah, the old logo, I haven't seen that for a while (thank you to WayBackMachine for archiving that).

Wait, what?

Yes, there were several revisions of clunky, hand made, Penultimate Cartridges from me, before the current slick TFW8b versions.

This is a bit like when you find "From Genesis to Revelation" and realise that "Trespass" wasn't actually their first album.

This was the first which actually had "Penultimate Cartridge" written on the PCB.

(I have gone back and tidied up a lot of the old posts I link here, made the pictures larger and fixed all the text alignments. I try to do that these days whenever I link to an old post. There is an archive of those links on my Patreon - https://www.patreon.com/collection/1750459)

I had posted about the previous version at the end of 2015.

I was calling that the "Penultimate Cartridge" in the post, but I had just written "vic20 rom/ram" on the PCB.

"More revision of that to come, on the way to 'the Penultimate Cartridge'. I've decided to call it that as every time there is a Final or Ultimate cartridges there seem to be quite a lot of versions that follow it. So I thought I'd be honest with the name on this one."

So, yes, I do know what the word "penultimate" means, no need to tell me in the comments like someone always does.

Menu Button

I had designed the board so it fitted into the shell from a standard VIC20 cartridge, with a bit at the back sticking out of a slot which they all have but is rarely used.

I think only the IEEE-488 cartridge actually used this, but maybe others.

In the second post, I had commented:

"It does make for a lot of DIP switches. This leads me to think it would be easier to come up with some sort of menu driven system which writes out to an I/O latch to set these options then reset the system. I suspect that will be the next stage of evolution."

I had been talking to this guy on the internet calling himself "Rod Hull". I have heard rumours that he does in fact have two real arms, although neither work particularly well at times.

Rod runs a business called "The Future Was 8 bit", and I had bought one of their SD2IEC drives previously and sent them some damaged VIC20 cases that had been victim to "wrap it in a bin liner and send via the cheapest courier" type ebay sellers.

Rod encouraged me to continue down the menu driven system route, and the first real Penultimate Cartridge was born

I prototyped that on a V2 PCB, and was soon ready to move to a PCB, V4 this time since I had used V3 on a bit of a dead-end.

A Wrong Turn

There was a V3, where I added an SD card reader (only took another further 9 years before we actually had that).

The idea at the time was to integrate an IEEE-488 adapter and a PET microSD (the predecessor of the SD2PET) onto the cartridge with the microSD slot on the bit of the PCB that sticks out.

Although the prototype was somewhat less integrated.

Neat idea, but the IEEE-488 interface needed a ROM in block 5, meaning you couldn't load a 32K game with it, so I gave up on that.

V4 Menu Drive Penultimate Cartridge

These V4 boards did not have any DIP switches, and had only a single menu button sticking out the back of the case.

Still fitting in a standard case and using the slot at the back.

Whilst I was continuing to develop the firmware, I had another revision of the board as I had moved the two big chips over the centre line, and some VIC20 cases have a central support which hit the top of the chips.

You can see that more clearly in the clear cases, is that clear?

The new revision had the chips moved away from the centre line and the word "menu" written in large, friendly letters at the top.

So there it was, the first menu driven Penultimate Cartridge.

I sold a few of them via PayPal "buy now" buttons on the blog post. Back in the day when international trade was cheap and easy, and actually encouraged.

The "buy now" button wasn't great as I had to have a drop down with one price for UK shipping, and another for international buyers, and of course everyone just clicked on the UK one as it was cheaper.

I also (briefly) sold these on ebay. I think I sold 5 and then someone in Italy claimed they didn't receive their cartridge and got a full refund from ebay, even though I had proof of postage etc.

Shortly afterwards, I got a support query from a user in Italy. Odd that, I had only ever sent one there and that one had allegedly not arrived.....

The refund on that wiped out the profit from all the cartridges I had sold so far. I don't think I have sold anything on ebay since.

These days, I sell via Tindie with various international shipping options automatically selected, and photos of the boards at a jaunty angle on my world famous, well battered desk.

The eagle eyed amongst you might have spotted the date codes on the chips in the photo above.


2025?

Yes, that is a freshly built V4.3 Penultimate Cartridge.

Why?

Well, that is the first in a limited edition, 10th anniversary reissue of the original design.

Why?

Well, I thought people might be interested in revisiting the earliest days of the Penultimate Cartridge, and completing their collection of Penultimate Cartridges.

Please note this is the 10 year old design, with the 10 year old firmware.

It has the following specifications:

  • Replica version 4.3 PCB
  • Original V4.3D firmware with no updates or bug fixes or extra features
  • Menu button to select ROM or RAM options
  • RAM expansion offering up to 35K RAM (selectable as 0K, 3K, 8K, 11K, 24K, 27K, 32K, 35K)
  • 39 ROM titles (see photos in the listing)
  • Autostart of text adventure ROMs
  • Boot to "*" or "FB20" from disk (not included)
  • Sockets for all ICs
  • Hand built and numbered

I can supply that in a clear TFW8b case if you want to show off your original Penultimate Cartridge, whilst also protecting it.

Speaking of which, back to the history lesson.

The Case

TFW8b liked the menu version and wanted to make it better.

It needed a case he said.

During one of many long, late-night phone calls planning this out, I took these photos of how we thought it might look.

Yes, that is two C64 cartridge cases sticking into the back of a VIC20 shell.

Remember at the time, there weren't any VIC20 cartridges cases with that design, they were all plain with one big label, which you couldn't read once it was inserted into the VIC20.

That was fine until you inserted it into the VIC20, and then you couldn't read what it was.

The Penultimate was to follow the size of the standard VIC20 cartridges, but with the lines and always-readable-label position of the C64 cartridges.

Rod then took an enormous gamble and commissioned the tooling to make proper injection moulded VIC20 cases, specifically for the Penultimate Cartridge.

The PCB was also rearranged by his PCB guy to fit the new case.

Gone was the bit sticking out the back, there were now proper buttons, one on each side. The left was the menu button as before, now illuminated, the right was now a reset button.

All in, with the tooling and the boards, that first run of Penultimate Cartridges cost TFW8b £26,000.

£26K in 2016 must be about $1M today.

That's a lot of green jelly.

Remember that before sending the "why doesn't it cost £1" or "can you just send me the files so I can make my own" type emails. Doing these things properly costs money.

We went through a few revisions getting the case to close perfectly, although the brown was a little chocolately, and we refer to these as the "Caramac" versions.

We finally managed to dial it in to something more like Rover P6 "Mexican Brown", with various different shades on the way there.

I don't think we consciously planned these as the "silver label" versions, although they did have silver labels, and we later moved to vinyl labels with colour on a white background......

The menu at this point was still my text version. Fast and functional, but not very pretty.

Controlled by pressing the keys highlighted in white or by joystick.

Those went into production, and did quite well, feedback was very positive but could it be improved?

TFW8b introduced me to Misfit, who had recently produced the excellent "Pentagorat" for the 32K expanded VIC20.

Misfit conjured up a demo of a graphical menu system which looked great, so I was able to merge that with my menu code and the Penultimate + was born.

This was a very slick product by now, with a new label, a sleeve, a larger ROM and the new graphical menu.

I kept refining the menu code, adding more and more titles, and working out ways to cram more into the space available.

But we kept running out of space, so the Penultimate +2 was born.

This had two ROM chips, double the capacity, and the menu program was redesigned so that it could load PRG files directly from ROM, rather than having to be converted with separate loaders as I had before. 

This also added the built in file browser to save having to go back to the root folder to load FB-20 each time.

And finally, we are up to date with the Penultimate +3.

This added an integrated SD2IEC, finally achieving what I had first tried 10 years ago with the IEEE-488 version. But being an SD2IEC wired to the IEC port, this was fully compatible, and didn't tie up block 5.

There is quite a difference inside, more than double the number of chips and a lot more complexity to support all the new features.

The +3 also boasts a built in DOS wedge and a turbo loader.

Now you could put games onto the SD card and load them pretty much as fast as if they were in ROM, answering the frequently asked question "can I add games to the penultimate cartridge"


Adverts

That latest all-singing, all-dancing version, the Penultimate +3 is available from

And the very much simpler 10th anniversary reissue of the original version is available here

My Tindie store also contains all sort of kits, test gear and upgrades for the ZX80, ZX81, Jupiter ACE, and Commodore PET.


Patreon

You can support me via Patreon, and get access to advance previews of blog posts, and progress updates on new projects like the Mini PET II and Mini VIC and other behind the scenes updates. This also includes access to my Patreon only Discord server for even more regular updates.