Sunday, 18 June 2017

Minstrel ZX80 Clone Issue 2.4 Boards

This is an old post, preserved for reference.
The products and services mentioned within are no longer available.

I am now shipping the V2.4 version of the Minstrel ZX80 Clone PCB.
These are now also available in blue, which goes well with the RC2014 keyboard. There is now a kit or fully built Minstrel with RC2014 keyboard available from my Tindie store.
The Minstrel ZX80 clone kit (also in my Tindie store) now comes with the choice of blue or green PCBs.
The blue wasn't actually planned, it was a mistake by the PCB manufacturers, but it's grown on me.
The v2.4 boards fix the issue identified on earlier boards with the pinout of the edge connector.
This means you can use things like the ZXpand (or here the new ZXpand+) directly with the Minstrel.
Note this is still an issue with the CAT command when you have more than a screen full of files in a directory (see previous article). I am currently working with the creator of the ZXpand to address this.
There are also a couple of minor mods such as larger spacing for the main input capacitor and through hole plating on the bolt hole for the regulator.
Also wider spacing on the pads on the video buffer transistor to make it easier to solder.
I've had a few queries about using larger size crystals on the Minstrel. The board was designed for a low profile crystal with an HC49S style case (e.g. this one from DigiKey), but some people have had difficulty locating those.
You can fit a normal HC49 size crystal, just bend the legs to rest the can on the components to the left or the IC to the right. Maybe add a drop of hotmelt glue to stop it moving around.
Regarding the frequency, I have been told that 6.5536MHz is close enough to work, but I have not verified that. You might need to change some of the values of the associated components to match the rated capacitance of your crystal, either the 47pF capacitor or the 1K resistor.
It is not possible to speed up the Minstrel by increasing the frequency of the crystal as this is tied to the TV signal generation, and a high frequency would not give a valid TV signal.
You can still fit these board inside a ZX81 case.
That build used a switching regulator, but you can still fit the original ZX81 heatsink and 7805 regulator.
The full range of PCBs, kits and fully assembled Minstrel ZX80 clones are available from my Tindie Store.
Finally, a video from Louis Scully building a V2.4 Minstrel clone in a white ZX81 case, like the one I built (full instructions here).

2022 Update: At the time of writing, there are still a few Minstrel 2 (ZX80) and Minstrel 3 (ZX81) kits available from  The Future Was 8 bit but those are the Final Edition kits, there are unlikely to be any more.

Monday, 5 June 2017

Reverse PC build

This is an old post, preserved for reference.
The products and services mentioned within are no longer available.

Most PCs are built the same way around.
On the front you get the power button, a few USB ports and LEDs, and some optical drives.
All the interesting stuff is hidden around the back where you can't get at it.
These pictures are from 2011, the first time PC I built in this Fractal Arc Midi case. It has since been rebuilt a couple of times, most recently in 2014 with a Haswell i5 which is still running nicely, so no plans to upgrade that.
The problem still stands that it's a bit of a pain to get around to the back of the PC to plug something new in. The answer is to turn it around. I modified a PC like that back in the 90s, when I needed access to lots of parallel and serial ports on the back of the case. That was a more traditional case with the power supply at the top, so I swapped that to where the optical drives went and fitted a sheet of metal bolted in where the power supply went with the power switches and LEDs, fan controls, 4mm terminal posts wired to the power supply etc. I can't find any pictures of that unfortunately. This one should be easier as the power supply is out of the way at the bottom of the case, so it can stay where it is. The optical drives don't get much use, so I can just use a USB DVD ROM drive whenever required
The front panel still needs to be sorted though. I don't use the audio jacks, so can safely ignore those. The USB ports are handy, but there are already lots of those on the back. However, I use lots of USB devices, so with a few extra brackets, I can redirect the front USB ports to the rear of the case.
This also gains an extra USB3 port as the original front panel wasted one with a single socket even though the internal USB3 connector is capable of providing two.
The power and reset switches and the power and hard drive LEDs are trickier. Then I noticed there were two 3/4 inch holes on the back designed for watercooling pipes. I have no plans to fit an external raditator, but I could use them to fit some switches.
After some searching I found some nice 19mm mounting hole 'vandal resistant' switches which were illuminated. I chose one with a green LED illuminated power logo and one with an illuminated red circle.
I couldn't get the exact ones I wanted, so these are designed for 24V operation of the LEDs, and the power button is latching. To get around that, I opened them up. Inside I found a 1K resistor in line with the LED.
I removed that and reattached the LED across the two connections so it could be driven direct from the PC motherboard as intended.
The latch mechanism was removed from the power switch, which turned it into a momentary push switch which is what I needed.
These were wired up with standard PC front panel colours. Two pin connectors for everything but the power LED which has two single pins (to cope with 2 pin or 3 pin motherboard headers).
Those fit nicely in the hole and will provide the new front panel for the PC.
Obviously, I need to keep the wiring inside neat.
The wires are passed through and run down the back plate.
These come out just next to the motherboard front panel connector block. I had fitted one of those Asus easy connect blocks, which may have been from a previous motherboard, but it makes these things easier to plug in right.
The extra USB ports just about fill the back panel. Four of them are from a PCI card, these are the ones I use for testing USB devices, worse comes to worse, they kill the PCI card, rather than taking out motherboard USB ports.
I put the USB 3 ports in a separate vertically aligned slot, which makes them easy to access for memory sticks etc. Time to put it into place on the corner of the office desk.
The LEDs are working nicely, as are the switches. I suspect this will be one of those things where I will feel a little smug each morning when I turn the PC on via the new switches. It is always nice when you do something useful that you use every day to make your life easier.
That's all wired up, I have better view of the power and activity LEDs, and clear access to all the cabling when I need it, and it's out of the way in the corner so I now have more floor space where it used to be.
Nothing for it now, I'm going to have to get some proper work done.

Update

I've been running the PC like this for a few months now and it is doing it's job nicely. The only issue I have is that since moving the PC onto the desk, I have noticed the noise of the fans more than before. It's pretty quiet, but not entirely silent. The CPU fan was fairly quiet, I tried various fan profiles, but the real issue turned out to be the power supply fan.
This Corsair HX850 was left over from the original i7 system which was rather more power hungry. The current i5 system only uses a few hundred watts at most.
I have replaced with with a Corsair RM550x. This is still more power than the installed system needs, but a key point is it will only switch on it's fan when the load is over 225W, so most of the time it runs in silent passive mode.
Since I was redoing the cabling, I took the opportunity to commit to the reserve layout, and get rid of the optical drives and bundle up the front panel cabling where they used to be. The resulting was a lot less cabling.
I also removed the case fans (which weren't connected anyway) and swapped the CPU cooler for a larger quiet one (an Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro).
The case is now very empty. And very quiet.

2022 Update: This PC is still running pretty much as shown here. All that has changed is I added two extra sticks of RAM and an NVMe drive in a PCIe slot.

Saturday, 27 May 2017

Timex Sinclair TS1500 Repair

What do you get if you cross a ZX81 with a ZX Spectrum? One of these:

This is a Timex Sinclair TS1500, a follow up to the TS1000. That was just a rebadged ZX81, the same issue 3 ZX81 board in a ZX81 case (with a different TV modulator and a bit of extra RF shielding). This is much more than that. It was only released in the United States, so is a but of an unusual sight here in the UK.

They have started with the BASIC ZX81 circuitry, Z80 CPU, 8K BASIC ROM, but have updated the ULA with a proper crystal oscillator, and built in wait state control (which seems to be an afterthought on the ZX81). They have taken the Spectrum case and keyboard, and also 8x4116 DRAM giving 16 K of RAM. The date code shows late 1983, the Sinclair ZX Spectrum was onto issue 3 boards by that point, seems odd that Timex were redesigning and pushing the ZX81 at this stage.

To power the DRAM, they have used something very similar to the Spectrum's non-too-reliable DC-DC converter. The chip count is about the same as the unexpanded issues 1 ZX Spectrum, with which this has a lot in common.

The 5V power is still provided by a 7805 regulator, mounted on the right hand side of the case. If this was going to get heavy use, I would substitute a switching regulator, but this particular unit is fine to stick with the 7805 and heatsink.

Although that power connector / edge connector arrangement looks very Spectrum like, they have stuck with the ZX81 style 3.5mm mono jack for the power connector, rather than the Spectrum's 2.1mm DC jack.

The Mic, Ear and TV options have been moved to the back like a Spectrum.

This one has been sent to me by a friend in the states. It appears to power up, but there is no response from the keyboard. Taking it apart shows it has the same fault as many ZX Spectrums do, one of the membrane tails has cracked.

Before I can tackle that, I need to check the TV output. This is NSTC RF, and I do not have a suitable tuner here. It have been asked to do a composite video conversion anyway, so that's the first task. What appears to be a modulator box is actually just a screening can around an area of the PCB. Within is an MC1374 based TV modulator circuit. There is also a bit of rust in there, seems to be contained within, presumably from moisture within the can.

This makes the conversion a bit more complicated that usual. The typical approach on a later ZX81 is to disconnect power, input and output from the modulator and install a small buffer amplifier board.

I thought about it for a while and decided the best option was to remove the MC1374. That would disable the rest of the circuitry in there, as well as providing convenient points to pick up the 5V supply and video inputs. It also leaves the option to revert to RF at a later date, should anyone want to.

I used one of the video buffer boards from The Future Was 8 Bit (these are currently on offer until the end of the month). I started with the bare board version and added wires for the required connections. The power, input and output with thin wire and some solid tinned copper wire for the three ground pads. The remaining two pads were for audio passthrough, which aren't needed here. The TS1500 doesn't have audio, although it does have the Spectrum's speaker cutout in the base!

The board fitted nicely onto the plate inside the modulator case, stuck on with some double sided tape. The top two ground connectors give a bit of extra support and hang over the side of the case, held down by the lid.

The two green wires on the right connect the 5V and video signal into the board. The green wire on the left threads under the central metalwork and connects to the output phono connector (the original wire having been disconnected). With the lid back on the modulator, you wouldn't know it had been modified.

Powering on, it looks like we have a picture. The TS1500 is by default in 60Hz NTSC mode. It might be possible to switch to 50Hz PAL mode by setting a pin on the ULA (the standard ZX81 ULA has a pin that is grounded for NTSC mode), but for the moment NTSC is fine.

To test it, I connected a spare keyboard. I couldn't use a ZX81 keyboard for two reasons, one the connectors are spaced apart like a Spectrum, and secondly it appears they are arranged like a Spectrum, with the columns reversed and the rows rearranged. Since it appears to be wired like a Spectrum I used a spare Spectrum+ lid.

It just felt wrong using the Spectrum keyboard to type into what was effectively a ZX81, but most of the keys are the same, so even the extended 'press two keys at once' Spectrum+ keys worked. Only things like the " key which presses the symbol shift and P keys is no good, as on the ZX81 (and TS1500) there is no symbol shift, that key is "./," however things like the arrow and delete keys work correctly.

Looks like we have a functional machine, so it is wired like a Spectrum, and it wasn't much of a surprise when I confirmed it was pretty much a Spectrum.

The metal faceplate was attached with double sided tape, so just a case of carefully prying off the cover without bending it. Under that was a familiar looking keyboard membrane.

Comparing this to an early ZX Spectrum membrane, they appear identical, and indeed both have suffered the same fate.

The metal faceplate is also interchangeable with it's Spectrum counterpart.

As is the keymat, but obviously the symbols on the mats and faceplate are different.

Do not do this, I was just testing the membrane before sticking down the cover. This is probably what the TS2000 / TS2048 would have looked like, but it was dropped in favour of the TS2068.

Finally, the cases are also it would seem very similar.

Given all this, it seems reasonable to assume a ZX Spectrum replacement membrane should be suitable. This one of from RWAP.

That fits in place perfectly.

The keymap and faceplate fit back on, and it's time to plug into the board.

No problems there, the tails were the standard length, and don't seem to fowl anything. Time to test it out.

All keys working, so in answer to the question, 'can you use a ZX Spectrum replacement membrane to repair a TS1500?', yes, you can.

I am assuming it is software compatible with the ZX81, but so far I have not been able to load anything from tape. The TS1500 does look to have a transistor buffer on the input, so I may need to fiddle more with the levels.


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If you want to build a different sort of ZX80 or ZX81, I have Minstrel 2 and 3 kits available from my Tindie store.

Versions are available for ZX81 case:

Or standalone with keyboard:

And also Minstrel 3 with ZXpand microSD card interface:

I have listed the Minstrel 2 and Minstrel 3 PCBs with and without keyboards or overlays on Tindie. Just in case you want to source your own parts and don't like the ease and simplicity of having them all supplied in neat little bags and a foam pad with all the ICs in order.

I am in the process of moving things over there from my SellMyRetro store, so if there is anything that you want, let me know and I'll add it.

I have recently added lots of PET repair and upgrade parts, more to follow.

Bluesky

For those interested in such things, I can now be found on Bluesky, and I expect to be posting more there.

Patreon

You can support me via Patreon, and get access to advance previews of posts like this and behind the scenes updates. These are often in more detail than I can fit in here, and some of these posts contain bits from several Patreon posts. This also includes access to my Patreon only Discord server for even more regular updates.